Double sided fleece fabric is a textile with a soft, brushed pile on both faces of the material, making it warm, cozy, and fully reversible. Unlike standard fleece that has one smooth side and one pile side, double sided fleece offers the same plush texture on both surfaces — which means no "wrong side" when cutting, sewing, or wearing. It's one of the most beginner-friendly fabrics for no-sew and low-sew projects precisely because its edges don't fray.
You'll find it widely used in blankets, scarves, hats, baby items, pet beds, and cold-weather apparel. If you've ever picked up a fleece throw at a craft store, chances are it was double sided fleece.
What Makes Double Sided Fleece Different from Other Fleece Types
Fleece is a broad category. Walking through a fabric store, you'll encounter anti-pill fleece, blizzard fleece, microfleece, polar fleece, and sherpa fleece — each with different structures and uses. Double sided fleece stands out because of its symmetrical pile construction.
Key Differences at a Glance
| Fleece Type | Surface | Frays? | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Double Sided Fleece | Pile on both faces | No | Blankets, scarves, no-sew projects |
| Polar Fleece | Pile on one side, smooth on other | No | Jackets, pullovers, outdoor wear |
| Microfleece | Thinner pile, one side | No | Lightweight base layers, liners |
| Sherpa Fleece | Curly pile one side, smooth other | No | Coat linings, vests, cozy accessories |
| Anti-Pill Fleece | Treated pile, one side | No | Garments requiring long-term durability |
The key practical advantage of double sided fleece over polar fleece is reversibility. With polar fleece, the smooth knit back is typically hidden inside a seam. With double sided fleece, both sides are finished and presentable — a real benefit for tie blankets and open-edge projects where raw edges are intentionally exposed.
Fabric Composition and Weight
Most double sided fleece is made from 100% polyester, though blends containing up to 10–15% recycled fiber or spandex exist. Polyester gives it moisture-wicking properties, quick drying capability, and resistance to shrinking — advantages over wool or cotton in active or outdoor contexts.
Weight matters more than people often realize when buying fleece. It's measured in grams per square meter (GSM):
- 100–150 GSM — Lightweight; good for liners, baby items, and warmer climates
- 200–250 GSM — Mid-weight; the most common range for double sided fleece throws and scarves
- 300–400 GSM — Heavyweight; used for cold-weather blankets and outerwear lining
The double sided construction adds bulk compared to single-sided fleece of the same GSM rating. A 200 GSM double sided fleece will feel noticeably thicker than a 200 GSM polar fleece because the pile exists on both surfaces rather than just one.
Top Uses for Double Sided Fleece Fabric
The non-fraying, reversible nature of double sided fleece opens up a range of projects that other fabrics can't match for ease and speed.
No-Sew Tie Blankets
This is arguably the most popular use. Two layers of double sided fleece are cut to size, the edges are fringed, and the fringe strips are tied together — no needle or thread required. A finished blanket typically takes under 2 hours including cutting time, making it a go-to project for school groups, charity drives, and gift-making.
Scarves and Cowls
A simple strip of double sided fleece — roughly 8–10 inches wide and 60 inches long — needs zero hemming. Cut, and it's done. The soft pile on both sides means it feels comfortable against skin no matter how you wrap it.
Children's and Baby Items
Double sided fleece is a favorite for baby blankets, burp cloths, and sleep sacks. It's hypoallergenic when made from virgin polyester, doesn't shed lint the way some natural fibers do, and washes and dries quickly — a critical feature for parents.
Pet Beds and Accessories
The durability and washability of polyester fleece make it ideal for pet bedding. Because it doesn't fray, raw-edge pet mats can be cut to any shape without unraveling, even after repeated machine washing.
Hats, Mittens, and Ear Warmers
For simple cut-and-sew cold-weather accessories, double sided fleece eliminates the need for lining. One layer provides warmth on both the outside and inside of the finished item. Seam allowances don't need finishing since the fabric won't fray.
How to Sew with Double Sided Fleece
Double sided fleece is forgiving, but a few specific techniques make working with it much easier.
Cutting Tips
- Use a rotary cutter and cutting mat rather than scissors for straight edges — it's faster and far more accurate on stretchy fleece.
- Cut a single layer at a time if precision matters; stacking fleece layers causes slipping.
- Always cut with the grain (the direction of least stretch) for garments that need to hold shape.
Sewing Machine Settings
- Use a ballpoint or stretch needle (size 75/11 or 90/14) to avoid skipped stitches.
- Set stitch length to 3.0–3.5 mm; shorter stitches can cause the fabric to tunnel or pucker.
- Use a walking foot if available — it feeds both layers evenly and reduces the pile from catching in the feed dogs.
- Reduce presser foot pressure slightly to prevent the pile from flattening permanently under the foot.
Seam Finishing
Because double sided fleece doesn't fray, seam finishing is technically optional. However, for garments subject to heavy washing or stress, a simple serged edge or zigzag stitch adds longevity. Exposed seams can also be trimmed to about 1/4 inch and left raw for a casual, sporty look.
Caring for Double Sided Fleece
Polyester fleece is easy to maintain, but a few mistakes can permanently damage the pile or cause pilling.
- Machine wash cold on a gentle cycle. Hot water can melt or mat the polyester fibers.
- Tumble dry on low heat or air dry. High heat is the number one cause of permanent pile damage in fleece.
- Skip fabric softener. It coats the fibers and reduces the moisture-wicking and breathability properties.
- Wash fleece separately or with similar fabrics. Washing fleece with cotton releases lint that embeds in the pile and is nearly impossible to remove.
- Do not iron directly on the pile. If pressing is necessary, use a pressing cloth and the lowest heat setting, or steam from a distance.
With proper care, double sided fleece items can last 5–10 years or longer without significant pilling or loss of softness.
Buying Guide: What to Look for
Not all double sided fleece sold in stores or online is equal. Here's what to evaluate before buying:
Pile Density
Run your fingers through both sides. The pile should feel uniform and dense, not sparse or uneven. Thin pile may indicate a lower-quality knit base that will pill faster under friction.
Stretch Recovery
Stretch the fabric and release it. Good quality double sided fleece snaps back quickly with minimal distortion. If it stays stretched or looks wavy after releasing, the fabric has poor elasticity — a sign it will lose shape after washing.
Colorfastness
Rub a damp white cloth against a corner of the fabric. Dye transfer onto the cloth means the fabric is likely to bleed in the wash, which is especially problematic for multi-color projects like two-toned tie blankets.
Width
Standard double sided fleece is usually sold in 58–60 inch widths. Some craft store versions sold for tie blankets come in pre-cut widths of 72 inches. Always confirm width before buying to avoid running short on a project.
Price Range
Budget double sided fleece typically runs $3–$6 per yard at major craft chains. Mid-range anti-pill versions with denser pile range from $7–$12 per yard. Premium or specialty prints can exceed $15 per yard. For a standard throw blanket (about 2–2.5 yards), expect a total material cost of $6–$30 depending on quality.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Buying too little fabric. Fleece has stretch, and cutting fringed edges removes 4–5 inches on each side. Always buy 10–15% more than your final measurement requires.
- Ignoring pile direction. The pile on double sided fleece has a nap — it reflects light differently depending on which way you stroke it. Cut all pieces in the same direction for a consistent appearance, especially on garments.
- Using pins incorrectly. Pins can leave permanent holes in fleece. Use wonder clips or sewing clips instead, or pin only within the seam allowance where holes won't show.
- Skipping pre-washing. Although fleece shrinks minimally (typically less than 3%), pre-washing before cutting ensures your finished project won't distort after its first wash.
- Using the wrong thread. Match polyester thread to polyester fleece. Cotton thread has less stretch and can break at seams when the fabric is pulled or worn.
